This is more proof Of a concept than a complete design. The rocks surround the firechamber and riser, it is a very cheap and effecient stove. Main problem is cleaning it, with a top that opens it is also a good sauna stove ! Ashtray opens to firechamber. If you build it please update me 🙂 happy building! No insulation on top, just lack Of proper materials)

The transition can be made with the metall casing like i did, but if you are not using a metall casing but just purely set the stove in bricks you can just fill the gaps around the fluepipe with mortar and small pieces of bricks. If you make the mortar properly it will sitt like sement once it dries.

Thank you for your comment! There seem to be a bug in the drawing there. You can try to let air through there and see how it works 🙂 Mabe it is “design by accident” Normally it would not be good for the draft to have the opening straight through there. And you could get smoke back through the ash door in extreme cases, but it is not likely to happen if your chimney is providing draft. I wonder what the others that have used the drawing succesfully have done?? The stove I builded was closed there…

-How do you transition the rectangular brick opening to the round 4″ flue pipe? Are you using a metal transition or clay?
-There is a channel down the middle of the first course of brick. Do you think the flue gasses can make their way forward and out the ash-door and into the room? Should there be a brick blocking this so that the base course looks like the letter “H”?

Hi !
Alex Chernovs design has only one outlet from the firechamber at the back, and it only has air intake at the back and in the front. This combined leads to a tendensy for the fire to draw out the back with out directly touching the coock top. It heats however ok, when it burns fully, but it is slow in the beginning and at the end since the fire is not forced close to the iron. If you want to use it a lot for coocking you can ad a crate in the middle, or redesign the firechamber with a baffel so that the fire neads to go to the frontand draw back across under the coock-top. This is what I did on my “Kitchen stove” Because of their constant desire to heat some food or simmer something this was a “dealbreaker” for them. For you it might not be so important. However, the bread oven works great, and heat is also great. You might be able to get the real drawings from Alex if you write him. This drawing might have design faults, it is defenently much larger because of the bricks adjusted size. Thanks for the tips about the grouping. You can see the inside using a tool called “section plane”

I updated the page with some pictures, hope it helps! The bottom of the firebox was made with firebricks, one gap for air in the front of the chamber and one in the back aprox 1,5-2 cm. A crate will give to much air and make the combustion less clean.

Happy building!

You can use the fireclay that is sold in sacs for the purpose of building fireplaces. The best is to find light collored brown or almost yellow clay.

The flueconnection can either be on top like kuznetsovs design shows or it can be on the side somwhere. The main thing is that you always have to make sure that the outlet will be on the bottom of the upper chamber. And that smoke and flames are encouraged to find their way to the top of the chamber before they find the way out. However there should always be a shortcut for the cold gases to get more directly to the outlet. In this case I had to build a small updraft internal chanel to mach the hole in the wall. On top of the outlet that you see on the picture closed it with a tile leaving the upper bell empty. It can than be extended as high as you please. We where in a hurry, thats why we didnt build it taller. Hope the pictures i added helps you.