The transition can be made with the metall casing like i did, but if you are not using a metall casing but just purely set the stove in bricks you can just fill the gaps around the fluepipe with mortar and small pieces of bricks. If you make the mortar properly it will sitt like sement once it dries.
Thank you for your comment! There seem to be a bug in the drawing there. You can try to let air through there and see how it works 🙂 Mabe it is “design by accident” Normally it would not be good for the draft to have the opening straight through there. And you could get smoke back through the ash door in extreme cases, but it is not likely to happen if your chimney is providing draft. I wonder what the others that have used the drawing succesfully have done?? The stove I builded was closed there…
]]>-How do you transition the rectangular brick opening to the round 4″ flue pipe? Are you using a metal transition or clay?
-There is a channel down the middle of the first course of brick. Do you think the flue gasses can make their way forward and out the ash-door and into the room? Should there be a brick blocking this so that the base course looks like the letter “H”?
Hi!! I am bussy setting up a commersial buisness making the stoves and solar heating now, so I almost havent been able to update this project. I am glad you liked it, I was also very impressed with the performance, specially for coocking… Steel is the only way , because tiles get fragile when hot, almost like glass. Then when you put a big saucer with poorige on in a hurry…. Try to get cast Iron if you can , if not, use as thik as possible normal steel, you can also reeinforce it by having bars welded as a framework under it. Go to a scrapyard and see what you find.I am currently building a 1400 brick multipurpose stove in my livingroom. It has a bench, waterheating, breadoven and cooktop. I hope to post some photos later…
]]>Hello again! I adapted your Sketchup model for our local firebrick dimensions and built the stove. Other building projects took over for the summer and I didn’t install the flue and test it until recently. It’s a beast! Fires up very quickly, burns efficiently and cleanly and is cooking in no time. And this still without a permanent set of doors (coming soon). What thickness of sheet steel do you use for the cooktop? I have been experimenting with ceramic floor tiles as cooktops. They work really well IF the whole tile can be heated evenly, but clay has such a low thermal conductivity that any cooler areas will stay cool and cause the tile to crack once the temperature differences get too great. I have a few tricks to try yet but if I have to go to steel then it would be good to know what you use and whether there’s been any problems with it warping. Great design! Congratulations!
]]>I am glad this can help you. The flue on this model is on the lower back so the whole coocking surface is available. If you study the ScetchUp you can see it more clearly.
The draft neads to be provided both in the front and the back. The front is primary air, the back one shouts up behind the fire and mixes on top of the fire and works as secondary air. Without the primary air in the front the stove will be hard to light up. You can control the draft with the opening of the ash-door. But remember that if you close it to much it wont burn that clean. But for coocking it is sometimes necessary.
The stove has been in daily use in a family of four for some months now. Works great and saved them half of the fuel they usually neaded ! The father was smiling when he looked at the big pile of wood that they didnt nead for this winter !!
Happy building, and keap me updated!!
]]>It looks to me that the draft is provided through the channel running beneath the firebox and opening into the back of the firebox and that the cut-away in the brick at the front of the firebox is for ash clean-out only? Is this right? If so, do you have any sort of damper control on the air channel? It’s hard to see this in the images.
Also it looks from these images as if the firebox is lined. Is this the traditional clay and wool liner you talk about in your post on materials?
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